Although not shocking, Fall/Winter 2017 brings eclecticism, rebellion and artistry to men's wardrobes
By: Dimitria Vitanova
Posted on: February 22, 2017
As labels begin to implement new strategies, including united men and women shows and straight-to-customer presentations, Fall/Winter 2017 menswear is a mixture of references and styles. From celebrating the buoyant last decades of the 20th century to elevating the street to high-fashion, the next cold bout shapes as not particularly sartorially innovative. Labels fall back to their core codes and a number of trends that emerged on previous runways continue to strut.
The curiosity of the season came from Louis Vuitton, whose collaboration with skate brand The Supreme reshuffled their strenuous relationship. Almost two decades ago, The Supreme debuted skate decks that quite resembled Louis Vuitton’s logo. The latter stroke with a cease-and-desist order. Today, it seems the two houses have buried their old spat with denim jackets, duffel and fanny bags as well as trunks that bear both brands’ monograms.
Apart from the bright red LV-The Supreme accessories, here are the trends that rule Fall/Winter 2017’s fad.
Keep It Big
The baggy sensibilities of last season are here to stay. From oversized trousers paired with fitting jackets, as seen at Emporio Armani and Billy Reid, to Balenciaga’s bulky coats and Vetements’ saggy tracksuits, the trend carries distinct defiance of high-fashion’s conservative designs, tailored to perfection. It is a gamble that more and more designers seem to risk – and for now, it is paying off.
Puffa jackets are another vestige of seasons past. This time around, though, the padded overcoats launched into a play of volumes and lengths. Balenciaga’s puffas barely cover the waist, yet their sleeves race well past the fingertips. Facetasm and Rick Owens keep the silhouettes slim, heaping ample fabric on the collars. Vetements and Dolce & Gabbana shared an aesthetic – their puffas were simply large.
The New Old
If there is one trend that unites most labels’ Fall/Winter 2017 collections it is the palpable melancholy for the last century. A slate of brands, including Marine Rose, Balenciaga and Ami Homme, presented suits that would blend into 1980s’ Manhattan. Others like Fendi and Prada backtracked a decade further – into the bohemian spirit of the 1970s.
Berets: Yay or Nay
An iconic French accoutrement, the beret weaved its way to men’s heads. Rendered in leather or yarn, berets accompanied the ensembles of Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Loewe, Moschino and Louis Vuitton. Able to top any wear – from formal to active, berets gave off a look that threaded the realms of dreams and childlike playfulness.
Faux or not, fur reigned the runways in disparate styles and colors. Dior and Balmain molded it into collars and close-cropped jackets and dyed it in vibrant cerulean, while Prada stitched it into popping details. Molded into knee-length coats, fur also made an appearance at Louis Vuitton and Fendi.
Out on the Street
In Fall/Winter 2017, high-fashion took to the streets. Casual, active and leisure described more than a single collection. Voluminous and flowing tracksuits marked the lines of Gosha Rubchinskiy, Balenciaga and Astrid Andersen. Meanwhile, colorful flannels with cheeky tags peeked under Fendi’s outerwear and soccer-style scarves swerved around the creations of Vetements and Y/Project.
For the following season, designers turned to artists for creative inspirations. Burberry premiered sculptural clothes that celebrate Henry Moore, while Gosha Rubchinskiy resurrected Russian futurism on its fabrics. J.W. Anderson opted for broad color blocks, while Prada brushed its knitwear in avant-garde strokes.
Women often peek at men’s wardrobes for inspiration and now men are gazing back. Subtle feminine notes sneaked into several collections. At Officine Generale, silk scarves graced the models’ neck, while beaded necklaces accessorized Raf Simons’ creations.