Reinventing and reigniting jewellery, Fawaz Gruosi is once again ready to bedazzle the world with his stellar style innovations. Known for his breakthrough with unconventional gems, his latest eponymous label greets the luxury world with a jewellery collection characteristic of his singular, creative style
By: Tejashee Kashyap
Posted on: January 27, 2021
In the past few years, the popularity of unconventional, beautiful jewelry went through the roof. But it was Fawaz Gruosi who can be credited for the revolution by bringing a new sense of elegance and bravura to those jewels. He had single-handedly mastered sensual high jewellery creations that helped black diamonds achieve the allure of a chic, rebellious spirit. His barrier-breaking innovations in design, concept and materials have shaped and influenced the visual language of modern jewellery - mismatched earrings, arresting combinations of gem colours, and a touch of modern, decadent baroque. Many jewellers now follow the path forged by this maverick.
“It is the right time, my personal moment to formulate new ideas, to find new directions, to evolve, and to bring something entirely fresh and exciting to jewellery, to come up with new surprises.”
It’s been 30 years since Mr. Gruosi bedazzled the world of high jewellery with his then brand de Grisogono. Armoured yet again with a disrupting and revolutionary design-driven glamour, Mr. Gruosi has launched his own eponymous jewellery brand. The Geneva high jeweller has ushered into a new period of creativity amidst an uncertain phase in these post-pandemic times.
New Romance With High Jewelry
Fawaz Gruosi has been called a reverent revolutionary, a modern master of design. Mr. Gruosi’s first-ever black diamond creation was a stunning ring set with 120 black diamonds with contrasting white pearl. The black diamond became his signature style and many iconic timepieces have been set with this precious stone. The restoration of the black diamond, which had been neglected by jewellers for decades, led to an absolutely unique jewellery collection then.
An Art Deco style bracelet by Fawaz Gruosi, made with rubies, emeralds and turquoise
His now fine jewelry collection exudes stunning design excellence and craftsmanship, lavish minimalism that can be worn, and enjoyed every day. Mr. Gruosi revels in rare and ravishing coloured gems of sublime quality, custom-cut, to construct striking silhouettes. True to character, the inaugural collection focuses on simple yet complex design that translates into strong, graphic rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces.
The jewels are lavished with Ceylan blue, pink sapphires, diamonds and turquoise creating a sensual mix of ovals and curves. Emerald and rubies, and bio-organic materials like coral create a jewellery dreamscape. The pieces are mixed with hard stones, jade, onyx, and, most unexpectedly, with golden amber. “When I took the crazy decision in the 90s to find and work with black diamonds, everyone was laughing at me. Now I’m trying to do the same with amber,” says Mr. Gruosi. Calling it “the future”, amber is basically a fossizilied tree resin, which captures insects and plant debris over a process which takes thousands of years. Mr. Gruosi’s amber comes from Lithuania.
An amber bracelet by Fawaz Gruosi
The contrast of coloured stones, proportions and technique with the details is what makes a Fawaz Gruosi piece so unorthodox! The new brazenly bold jewels reinterpret a fleeting image, an object, flower, creature, sunset, sand, sea or sky in the classically novel Gruosi style.
Colours rule for Mr. Gruosi, whose bold jewels subvert traditional jewellery codes. His love of texture, vibrant hues and Art Deco-inspired design accents can be felt in his new collection. It evokes rapturous acclaim, marking the unbreakable bond he shares with the art of fine jewelry making. Linear yet sensual, sophisticated yet playful - you can always ‘expect the unexpected’ with Mr. Gruosi’s brand of innovative jewellery. The jewels are set with arresting combinations of vibrant colours, asymmetrical lines, shapes and forms that elevate contemporary femininity.
Diamond and emerald earrings set in titanium by Fawaz Gruosi
Many of his earrings are set in titanium so that they fall lightly on the ear, making them wearable for a longer period of time. A cocktail ring centred with an emerald-cut rubellite, encased in spines of carved pink opal and diamonds, can be twisted into vertical, horizontal and angled positions, so that you can wear it vis-à-vis whatever mood strikes you. Small animal rings with comical features were also at the centre of the virtual presentation. The diamond penguin looked dapper with turquoise scarf and beret, the amethyst octopus was jovial, and a snug crab in a hat had various elements which could be moved around! “It’s good to have something that makes you laugh,” said Mr. Gruosi with a chuckle.
And then there is a gorgeous, glorious ruby bracelet. Fringed with marquis-cut rubies, that have been placed in layers upon layers, the coil of the bracelet is made with 1064 brilliant-cut rubies. The fiery fringe of ruby-petals sway around as you move your hand, making it a seductive, sensorial experience.
An iconic ruby bracelet by Fawaz Gruosi, where the fringe of rubies sway with the movement of the hand
“It is the right time, my personal moment to formulate new ideas, to find new directions, to evolve, and to bring something entirely fresh and exciting to jewellery, to come up with new surprises,” Mr. Gruosi explained during the virtual unveiling of his collection.
Emerald and rubies, and bio-organic materials like coral create a jewellery dreamscape. The pieces are mixed with hard stones, jade, onyx, and, most unexpectedly, with golden amber.
But Mr. Gruosi’s favourite piece from the new collection was much simpler than his other creations - an emerald ring paved with diamonds and onyx – an elegant style with a quiet sophistication.
A rotating 18K rose gold ring set with an emerald-cut rubellite, white diamonds and pink opal, by Fawaz Gruosi
Each creation is meticulously hand-crafted. The finesse of exquisite details on the reverse of each jewel becomes a true and noble work of art. Equally interested and great at both – jewellery and watchmaking, the collection shall also comprise of barrier-breaking timepieces adorned with fine gems and superlative hand-craftsmanship. The upcoming timepieces will hold the DNA of excellence, creativity and, of course, glamour. Well, the present stunning high jewelry evokes exclusivity, excellence and exerts a powerful influence.
Unveiling a New Chapter
Mr. Gruosi has always been a man on a mission to inject modernity and new-style glamour into the deeply-rooted, traditional high jewellery world. Of course, owing to the pandemic, the conventional norms surrounding this society has eased in a great manner. Setting a new mood and definition once again, Mr. Gruosi chose London for his first boutique.
Located in Berkeley Square and designed by interior designer Francis Sultana, the store sets a different tone of lavishness. A true sense of luxury abounds in materials including patinated bronze, softest suede, bullion threaded tweed, rock crystal, and marble as well as the deepest velvets. The store, a blend of Art Deco and modern elements, has bold decorative statements and a vivacious sense of drama around. The store includes a beautiful open space with seductive upholstered seating and viewing areas. What’s more interesting are the hand-embroidered curtains inspired by Andy Warhol’s camouflage paintings that create privacy from the street outside. Just like the jewellery, the store speaks of craftsmanship and attention to detail at its very heart.
Mr. Gruosi has always yearned to give customers something new and unseen. At a moment of change in the entire luxury universe, Mr. Gruosi brings instinctive and innovative changes as he directs a spectacular collection. In the initial phase itself, Mr. Gruosi plans on expanding his retail stores to the rest of the European market. He has set out in his mission to reinvent Haute Joaillerie for a 21st century sophisticated global clientele.
Mr. Gruosi’s creations are synonymous to the red carpets of glittering soirées of Cannes. His creations had toured the world and adorned the greatest international stars. With this highly individualistic venture, Mr. Gruosi hopes to redefine jewellery yet again, offering a story with each creation. His quest to find new processes for working on unexpected materials, infusing new jewels with his signature playfulness and sensual design is just the tip of the iceberg! Ever pushing for change and re-invention, and with a million surprises underway, the jewellery world waits for the magic to unfold.
An emerald, turquoise and diamond ring by Fawaz Gruosi