A cross between tradition and sci-fi, the collection uses multiple elements to present a royal look
January 31, 2022: Inspired by the ancient Roman landscape which is as accommodating to a futuristic vision, Fendi’s Creative Director Kim Jones presents a Couture collection that draws upon fantasy and reality to land in a merged present.
“When you walk down the street in Rome, you are constantly moving back and forth in time,” explains Mr. Jones. “Where we work feels very modern, but you pass monuments on the way there. There’s a total timelessness to the city: a historic vein which runs through it, but also a movement that is projecting forwards.”
In a bid to catch that vein, Mr. Jones created an army of empresses whose divine purity is imbued with celestial power. Lavish craftsmanship is applied to their sci-fi silhouettes. Fluid fabrics are sprinkled with baguette beads luminous with light; hand-embroidered tights appearing as a second skin.
Duchesse silk and organza are illuminated with traditional beading and mother of pearl, while the classical statues located outside of Fendi’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana are hand-painted in dramatic chiaroscuro onto sheared mink and velvet.
Heat-molded leathers, embroidered with micro sequins, mink and pearls, echo Corinthian reliefs; exposed underpinnings reveal the very essence of couture: its construction.
The archeological remnants of ancient civilizations are unearthed. Volcanic stone and hematite are inset into bags, while natural crystal geodes and amethyst appear in the jewellery.
Power is embedded throughout the collection, from warrior like armour, now crafted in Persian lamb and leather, to the imperial majesty of floor-sweeping trains. A limited colour palette of black and white is punctuated with royal red and purple.
As always, Mr. Jones manages to capture the strength of women through this couture collection.