Replete with hidden messages and surprising notes, ‘Animal Instinct’ is unique while staying true to the trench look
September 29, 2021: Burberry’s Spring Summer 2022 collection takes a surprising turn with some familiar motifs. The collection includes the iconic Burberry trench coat, which has been deconstructed and rebuilt in strong and striking silhouettes that experiment and play with volume. Styles that are in a blend of classic Burberry gabardine and textural linen cotton are cropped at the back to reveal swimsuits which are animated with abstract prints.
Transformed through daring detailing, the signature outerwear in soft fawn and dark biscuit shades has exaggerated lapels, chain-link embellishments, sleeveless proportions and raw hems. The trench and car coat have been given a sense of fluidity through fluted and oversized sleeves on collarless and hooded shapes, along with caplets that are perforated or trimmed with leather - reinvigorating the traditional with a twist of youthful energy.
Evoking the flowing forms of camouflage is a kaleidoscope of geometric and experimental abstract print, and the ‘Universal Passport’ graphic adorns both dresses and shirts, layered under printed sheer or mesh tops to create new harmonies of pattern. The geometric colour-block intarsia and prints are seen on dresses and oversized sleeveless blazers.
Exploring the freedom of movement through flowing cap-sleeved and halter neck gowns with thigh-high splits and mini dresses are adorned with sweeping exaggerated fringing, frills and straps, and paired with juxtaposing oversized jackets.
Boxy-fit blazers have been reworked in sleeveless and backless cuts, presenting an unstructured approach to British tailoring. Lapels have been reconstructed as scarves to wrap over the shoulder, and a chest plate with boned forestry is subversively recast in smooth leather, or as a hoodie in technical neoprene with a peplum hem.
There are sexy figure-hugging silhouettes in stretch technical fabrications, in contrast to the oversized proportions, and they exude a mood of confidence that underpins the looks and elevates stand-alone pieces. Vivid and light bodysuits and leggings have been layered with tactile mohair-blend caplets and animal-inspired fringing, which challenges the conventional. There are long-sleeved tops and leggings with porthole cut-outs and chain-link details, off-the-shoulder ribbed knitwear is worn with crop tops with cut-out details, and stirrup leggings with seam details and toe loops and a bodysuit in crystal net and tulle.
In the words of the Chief Creative Officer, Riccardo Tisci, “To me, this presentation really represents the freedom of our imaginations: how we dream to come alive. I wanted to move through a series of immersive spaces, each of them unique and unexpected in their sound, texture and experience. It’s that idea of flicking between the endless realities and fantasies we have at our fingertips each day.”
In terms of bags, the Rhombi has been introduced, which is a new ellipse-shaped shoulder bag inspired by the abstract curved prints in the collection. The structured shape has been sculpted to the body and features a lightly padded strap with an oversized clasp detail, and has been presented in a smooth leather in soft fawn and black, and in coated canvas in birch brown check. The clutch iterations include nalco leather with ring-pierced details or metallic fringing, both with an oversized clasp handle, and joining the style is a cut-out Thomas Burberry Monogram in quilted nappa leather in black and soft fawn. A signature style for the house, the Olympia bag has evolved. It has a crescent curve and an athletic aura which is developed for this season in a softer shape in leather, with a circular strap.
For shoes, square-toe calf leather sandals, with and without a toe-ring detail have been presented, featuring a press-stud T-bar and buckled ankle strap - a minimalist style to leave feet bare. They have been set on a slim high heel or a flat leather sole in black, white and soft fawn. This simple shape also comes as an exaggerated over-the-knee sock boot with an open toe, in black.