Bottega Veneta showcases Men's Fall-Winter 2011
January 16, 2011: Bottega Veneta’s Fall-Winter 2011/2012 collection is taut and urban, with an austere, streamlined sensibility. The luxury fashion brand remakes traditional men’s wear items like the jacket, the smoking, and the sweater in uncommon ways, for example, by mixing materials and methods of construction.
Creative Director Tomas Maier said, “We started thinking about the way we make things and what effect that has on the outcome. The elements that comprise a man’s wardrobe don’t vary that much over time. So to evolve you have to reinvent what you already have.”
The colour palette is somber and moody, with dark shades of espresso brown, tourmaline blue, stone, rust, and pyrite gray. Technicolor brights heighten the collection with vivid sapphire, peridot, orange resina, and a fiery red called corniola making appearances. The silhouette is narrow and close to the body, with a natural shoulder and skinny, tapered pants. Jackets are lean and uninflected, some as lightweight and unlined as a shirt, others sharply tailored but without shoulder pads. A slim trench coat reinforces the efficient line of a narrow suit. Shirts are dark, narrow, with classic patterns cut up and reconfigured. A smoking emerges in a form that can be stashed in a suitcase.
The suiting fabrics, all designed by Bottega Veneta, are produced from a specially finished wool that has a crisp, old world feel. Subtle patterns woven into the fabrics are obscured, indistinct, woven dark-on-dark and then overprinted to create more visual texture than visible pattern. Other materials include washed and aged leathers, densely felted woolens, and soft knits that range from fine jersey shirts to chunky pullovers with irregularly placed stitch patterns. Knits are central to the collection. There are tailored jackets with knit pieces, shirts that are part leather and part knit, and cardigans pulled over blazers.
Bags are soft, lightweight, and above all, functional. Shoes are classic in inspiration but remade to blur the boundary between formal and informal. There is an ankle boot and a lace-up, both easily worn with jeans or a suit.